Copra: Reinventing Indian Cuisine

It was unanimous: we all fell in love with this welcome addition to Fillmore Street. Since my loyal readers regularly listen to my opinions, I thought I’d turn the tables and first let you know what Laura had to say:

“The first course comes when you walk in the door. It is a visual feast of hanging macrame ropes—lots of them. There are wooden pillars, woven light shades, and floor-to ceiling cubbies, each with its own unique piece of pottery or basket. Together, the dramatic design signals this is going to be more than a meal and instead an experience. The bold but not too spicy flavors, the vibrant colors of the sauces, dips, chutneys; the deep golden brown of the uber crunchy fried, yet greaseless, juicy chicken; and the explosive flavor package of perfectly cooked spiced cod wrapped in banana leaves (a dish that could easily be ho-hum but one for which Chef Sri (as he’s known) has raised the bar a hundredfold)—is just the beginning. The welcoming staff brings warmth alongside the extraordinary dishes, and together with the balanced yet explosive ingredient combinations inherent in each dish, Copra is unquestionably one of the most satisfying restaurant experiences I have ever had, both inside and out.”

Undoubtedly, with Chef Sri at the helm, this restaurant aims for Michelin quality. The design, as Laura pointed out, is contemporary, with a throwback to the fern bar rope designs of the ‘70s. The soaring ceilings create a buzzy, inviting, fun atmosphere, but thankfully you can still talk. I will say that the wine list is quirky. It’s more for oenophiles than regular restaurant goers and was the only disappointment during the evening. The Canary Islands Dolores Cabrera Bianco was funky (not my favorite); the Eric Kamm Pinot Gris from Alsace was a little fermented and effervescent. So, I settled on a Botanist gin up, which was perfect. (According to its own description, the restaurant also offers “an eclectic cocktail program crafted in a collaboration between Nora Furst, Stephanie Gonnet, Christopher Longoria of West Bev Consulting, and acclaimed mixologist Varun Sudhakar, who is based in Kerala.”)

We started with the steamed delta asparagus accompanied by a lentil dumpling, tomatoes, coconut, and turmeric. It was like a mouthwatering, delicious vegetarian meatball with just-picked produce and tropical accents. The torn salad with pomelo, avocado, chicory, and mango vinaigrette was a refreshing palate cleanser.

For the chutney course, you get to pick four different types, and they’re served with a poppadom (a thin, round, crispy Indian bread). Our favorites? The wild gooseberry and the burnt chili and tamarind chutneys. Our next course was new to me—a dish called rasam poori—and it’s a winner. It consists of sprouted chickpeas, radish, mint, and passion fruit—an unexpected but delicious combination.

For a fiber intermezzo, we enjoyed vibrant green, fresh snow peas. Then, as Laura indicated, the star of the evening was the black cod in banana leaves, with moilee broth (a coconut-based curry): so different and yummy. Thattukada fried chicken, a staple Indian street food, came next, with fennel, red chilis, shallots, black pepper, and masala crumbs. The unusual spices make this dish come alive, and yet it’s still crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Southern or Korean fried chicken, beware: this might be the next big thing. A rice cake with egg and black truffle, all gently mixed together, was another standout. In a nod to the former Indian restaurant, Dosa, Chef Sri serves a savory crepe with potatoes and a variety of sauces. A side dish of rice with pineapple and fried onions is another tasty tropical twist. For dessert, we sampled another dish I’ve never tried before: watalappan. It’s a flavorful blend of pineapple, cashews, butterscotch cream, and palm sugar—light, sweet, and just the right ending to a wonderful meal.

Footnote: The Robb Report just came out with its ranking of top 10 new American restaurants and guess who’s on top? Copra!

Hats off to Chef Sri and partner Ayesha: Copra is a restaurant to watch.

Bits and Bites: Pride

It’s still Pride Month, and many restaurants and retailers are offering celebratory specials. Here are a few:

One Market is showcasing a “Drag Race Margarita”: grilled jalapeno-infused Espolon Reposado tequila, with fresh lime, agave nectar, strawberry, and, of course, the obligatory “secret ingredient.”