REVEL AND REVERE

Fried Quail Breasts

A DECADENT, LOCALLY-SOURCED DINNER AT ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH’S NEWLY OPENED RESTAURANT

by MOLLY McANANY

Photographs by SILAS FALLSTICH

The Revere Room at Rosewood Miramar Beach has created the perfect local escape, like that of a summer home in the Hamptons. The walls of the dining area are eye-catching, lined with pale blue wallpaper designed of floral accents and birds—a subtle nod to the American Riviera landscape that influences the dishes curated by Executive Chef Massimo Falsini. Walking across the tiled patio, I’m seated at a table in front of the floor to ceiling double doors that shed a soft light on the room. The atmosphere of the newly-opened restaurant is formal, yet the laughs from nearby tables remind me that food is not meant to be proper but devoured and delightfully enjoyed. So, instead of following the usual flow of a three course meal, my partner and I take some comedic liberty with our approach to the menu, dividing our meal by our three favorite C’s: cheese, chops, and cake.

Charred Rack of Lamb

With a Revere Old Fashioned in hand, comprised of Bulleit Rye Whiskey, Amaro Montenegro, peach liqueur, and orange bitters, a white, glistening ball of Belfiore Burrata surrounded by a delicate circle of herbed confit artichokes is placed before us. This buffalo cream filled king of artisanal cheeses (in my opinion) is sourced directly from Northern California, fulfilling The Revere Room’s promise to source locally from farmers throughout California and the Central Valley. Chef Falsini visits the Santa Barbara farmer’s markets every week to pick up in-season vegetables and ingredients that represent California’s changing flavors. As I spread the last spoonful of creamy goodness onto lightly toasted sourdough, part two of our cheesy first course arrives at the table. There’s nothing that smells quite like mac and cheese, and this version, topped with lobster and filled with Fiscalini Cheddar, Rustichella Torchio and Parmigiano Reggiano crumbs, is silky and creamy. The big spiral pasta augments your typical macaroni noodle and adds a doughy texture to the dish.

The second course, consisting of chops, begins with a beautiful charred rack of lamb accompanied by artichokes and an arugula salad topped with Castelvetrano olives and walnuts. The lamb practically melts off the bone with a soft butteriness that even the most tender of braised meats can’t beat. Our next on-the-bone dish to make an appearance is fried quail breasts, a sophisticated spin on fried chicken, with juicy, flavorful dark meat. I enjoy every bit, mixing in heaps of the radicchio marmalade and pickled apple salad, which brings a tanginess to the salty drumsticks.

Opting for a light glass of prosecco to conclude the evening, we debate over dessert and, unable to pick one, choose two cakes that each have a unique richness in their own right. The devil’s food cake and 1759 cheesecake arrive, complementing each other as a contrasting pair of light and dark. Not a big chocolate fan myself, I enjoy the simplicity of the old classic but can barely get in a second bite before my partner, the biggest chocolate fan I know, leaves not a single crumb left. As one of my all-time favorite desserts, the 1759 cheesecake with a blood orange and almond jelly mousse definitely takes the cake, combining both cheese and cake to make it the perfect finale for our C-named food inspired dinner. Quite like a cheesecake entremet, this delicate, layered cake is a perfect combination of creamy and classic with a graham cracker crust that adds just enough bite.

After thanking our waiter for the wonderful recommendations, we walk across the lawn that I had spent the last hour or so watching the sunset light up in a pink-orange glow and through the grand foyer. Even though we only stayed for dinner, the evening was enough of a getaway to return home refreshed, relaxed, and most importantly, full. *