ALPINE COFFEE (CIVILISED VERSION)

When it comes to alpine climbing, the coffee situation presents a paradox that has always intrigued me. The lore of “light and fast” demands ruthless efficiency when it comes to packing, making my overly “lavish” coffee kit a prime suspect for the “not alpine” pile. However, anyone familiar with the dreaded (yet indispensable) “alpine start” will understand the pivotal role coffee plays in that subtle art of avoiding an epic or occasionally just surviving one.

And so, as I anxiously eyeball my heavier-than-I-care-to-mention coffee kit, sitting next to my already overweight pack, a dilemma emerges. Of course, there are a few options. Here are my thoughts on some of them as one of those insufferable “civilised coffee drinkers”.

F*#k that!

Look, if you don’t mind the taste, then it’s a very fitting solution. It weighs nothing, requires no equipment and doesn’t produce any rubbish. But if you do mind the taste, then it’s liquid psyche killer!

However, there are now a few specialty coffee roasters—and even a US company founded by pro climbers—who have started making “premium instant coffee”. In my experience it tastes a bit like a dirty pour-over (great route name, btw). This is an improvement, but it’s still not amazing. It will make you feel like Steve House surviving off a diet of powders, gels and other freeze-dried goodies (though if it makes you climb like him, it’s worth it).

This is probably the best solution I’ve found so far and was our go-to system on a recent trip to NZ. Drip bags are basically small pour-over style pouches filled with some pre-ground coffee. They’re made from a teabagtype material and weigh an alpine-friendly 11g each. Generally, they’re flushed with an inert gas like nitrogen, so they’ll tend to last a while, despite the coffee being pre-ground.

Are they as light as instant? No. Do they leave behind any rubbish? Yeah, a little. Do they really taste that much better than instant? Absolutely!

I’ve tried a few different ones from Ona Coffee, Sample Coffee and Stitch Coffee, and have been very satisfied with the resulting cups, especially considering the weight, portability and convenience.

I’ve also tried a few steeped bags (also called “coffee bags”, they are the same design principle as tea bags), but I have never enjoyed them as much.

Drip bags are pretty simple to use, but here are a few tips to get you started:

Pour gently: Try to keep a steady and gentle stream of water while pouring; otherwise, you’ll create a pit of shame in the coffee grounds, which tastes as bad as it looks. I recommend pouring from something with a fine spout (the Sea to Summit collapsible kettle is excellent for this).

Use a small ratio: Drip bags generally come with around 10g of coffee in them. Regardless of what the packet says, I recommend staying around a 1:15 to 1:16 ratio (pouring 150 to 160ml of water for a 10g pack). It’s a good idea to do a practice brew at home with your scale so you can eyeball how much you’re pouring later…or just pack a mini scale anyway (though it might piss off your climbing partners).

Pour, swirl, pour: As far as technique goes, I would try splitting it up into two even pours (80ml +80ml) and doing a few gentle swirls to settle the coffee bed. Try to let the water level drain almost entirely in between pours and use the hottest water you can, but lower the temp if it tastes roasty or ashy.